New Caledonia, April 2019

Sometime in November 2018, I got a swap request from Tahiti. The family wanted to swap over the Easter holidays in 2019. I was excited! Beach holidays are not our thing but Tahiti has always been touted as a must see place so of course I was excited. A bit more research showed it wasn’t a very child friendly swap. Allegedly, the country is very geared for tourists. Adult tourists. An alternative was New Caledonia. A developing/ under developed tourism industry, lots of open spaces and very child friendly. Out of curiosity, I started browsing what homes were available in New Caledonia. A few days later, I got a swap request from 2 families in Noumea on Home Exchange. Sometimes, Home Exchange will send you an email if people look through your listing. I guess that’s what had happened in this instance. I mulled over the requests for all of 5 minutes before replying back that I was potentially interested. It’s our anniversary in April so why not?! I checked flights; $2400 for return tickets and choose the swap that came with a car as that would massively keep our costs down. Sometime in mid March, the lady contacted me saying she’d had a crash and therefore we couldn’t swap cars. This should have given me an inkling of what was coming! I was annoyed to be honest. Car hire for us costs almost as much as flights as we need a 6 or 7 seater car plus car seats and these tend to be exponentially more expensive than regular cars. Yep, as predicted, car hire came to almost $1400 for 10 days!A day before the trip, Andrew called me and said that he’d upgraded our travel insurance to a super duper more comprehensive one as he’d been reading about how expensive healthcare is in New Caledonia. I did say to him then that it was a waste of an extra $60 as we do have travel insurance. Anyway, I grovellingly (ok not quite) apologised for that comment! More on that later…We arrived to a very gloomy Noumea. It was predicted to rain for the whole 10 days! It was cloudy when we arrived but humid. Very humid. First impression of Noumea? Beautiful! My welcome message from Vodafone, not so beautiful. Roaming charges – $1 per minute to answer calls and send texts, $5 per minute to make calls! Yikes! To annoy me even further, there was a message from Agaba’s school saying he was absent. Really?! I called them the week he started school saying we were away for part of the last week of school. Email us the dates they said and I did! I had to call and ask what the hell they were playing at! Apparently, it was sent in error. Ok na. I used the opportunity to call the friend of our host to give her an idea of when we would turn up. She said 40 minutes from airport to the house. We picked up our car- van more like. A Peugeot Expert! No wonder it cost so much. We rattled in it’s cavernous space for 12 days! All the children seats were in booster seats. C and G are still too young for booster seats but that was all they had or infant seats and there’s no way they would fit in infant seats!First glimpse of Noumea. Beautiful, no?!We are now seasoned travellers! Everyone settling in for the flight. It’s a short 2.5 hours from Auckland. By the time the trolley came round, we were halfway through the flight!We arrived at the house starving! The lady was nowhere to be seen. I went over to the neighbour to ask if we were at the right place. She was very unfriendly so I retreated to the car! 10 minutes later, the friend pulled up, led us in and showed us everything. The house manual was 3 pages of handwritten instructions. More dismay. They also had 3 cats. Even more dismay. We do not do swaps with pets. We like driving around, exploring, staying out late etc. That does not fit with having pets to look after! After a few back and forth messages, she said her daughter would come sort out the cats if and when we stayed away from the house. The house itself was ok. Very cluttered, some people like that. I don’t! I just see potential costs! My children don’t walk. They charge around everywhere. They’re like a herd of Rhinos! First thing I did was secure anything that looked fragile or precariously perched. We’d travelled with another family so actually had 4 children aged 5 and below! Sleeping arrangements sorted, we headed out to the shops! We got to Carrefour ok. Food wise, cost is similar to Auckland which is impressive as most of the food to NC is imported. We went to pay and they were no bags! None at all. Even if we wanted to buy, none was available! We had to ‘borrow’one of the shopping baskets to cart our shopping home. We loaded up and proceeded to get horrendously lost! Took us a good 30 minutes to find our way back to the house! But we got some very beautiful night time views and also discovered how step and hilly Noumea was!Lovely garden full of fruit trees and lots of shadeFish pond! Yay! More pets to feedThis part of the house is my favourite. I could happily sit here all day. It was shaded throughout the day and very cool. It also over looked the valley below and the sunsets and sunrises were spectacular.There was a piano! Yay something positive. We had bought one in January so the children were very pleased to see it. Onyaidu especially. She spent many moments there.That banana ripened whilst we were there. Andrew did some harvesting duties too!Sunset in Noumea. Stumbled on the highest place in Noumea as we were trying to find our way back to the house.The lovely outside sitting area. Completely protected from the elements. We had most of our breakfasts here! Another positive. Honestly the house wasn’t that bad. It was fit for purpose. The children were fascinated by the snails. Andrew was amazed at the size. Of course, this is normal for me. After, all we have African Land snails in Nigeria. Those are the size of a bird!Day 2 -We went exploring Noumea. We started from the market. It opens daily from 6am to 11am ish. We found breadfruit, soursop, avocados that look like the ones I grew up with (humongous and smooth skin) and other tropical fruits. There is also a craft market. It was chucking it down with rain so we waited in the market for a break in the rain and then drove round exploring. We followed the coastline and stopped as we found interesting stuff to look at. We went to Lemon Bay but it was too busy for our liking!Exploring the marketYou just about see the outline of Duck Island on the horizon. It is full of turtles, no idea why it’s named Duck Island!No idea who he is! Lots of people snorkelling here! His gear was impressive!Corals on Lemon Bay. You can see Duck Island from here. Possible to swim there if so minded! Lots of turtles on Duck Island. And sea snakes!You can only buy alcohol on Mondays, Tuesdays and Thursdays. The alcohol aisle is closed on all other days.Day 3. We decided to go visit the south end of the Grand Terre which is the main island in New Caledonia and the 3rd largest of the Pacific islands. Prony and Yate are located here. The landscape is very Martian! It’s rugged and bare with lots of shrubs and scrub land. There’s been heavy mining for Nickel in this area and there is a huge mine in Yate. We spent the whole day here. It’s a 2 hour drive from Noumea. There weren’t a lot of places to stop and buy food. We had many car picnics on this trip! There is a penal colony in Prony. It housed the first Europeans who came to live in NC. Over the course of some years, 25,000 convicts were shipped from France to colonise and work in NC. These are the ancestors of most of the current New Caledonian Europeans. I am amazed by the number of black people I see. Research tells me they are the Kanaks. Of particular interest to me is their hair types and textures! We were also of a lot of interest to them! A family of 5 with different eye colours, skin tones and hair types! We had lots of interesting conversations with people!Blue River National Park. You can find Cagous here. The official mascot and bird of New Caledonia. No, we didn’t see any. The weather was horrendous so we didn’t embark on any walks. Our cavernous vanOne of the very few bridges with barriers at the sides. Most have none and are very narrowThe Kanaks live in Tribes. There are signs letting you know which tribes live where. However, it’s best to ask for permission before veering onto tribal land.A very patriotic country! Lots of flags everywhere! Hanging off any surface that can hold one!Aha! This is what most of the bridges are like! Makes for a worrisome crossing every time!The Penal Colony in Prony. It’s been maintained and left intact as it was in the 1800s.Pristine springs and streams dotted round the whole country.103 years old! This is some seriously old Banyan treeNot quite sure what tree this is. It seemed to have some sort of cherries as seeds. It is also a large tree.Soursop! Was very happy to find one. Andrew and Agaba also love it. The girls, not so much!Day 4 We decided to have a mini rest day in Noumea as we were heading off for a 3 day road trip round Grand Terre. We spent some time in Coconut Square then took the Tchou Tchou train round Noumea.I’ve not seen a lantern since 2006! You know your parents think you’re a responsible child when you’re tasked with filling it with kerosene and cleaning the very thin, fragile glass. Brings back lots of memories!Some military history for grandad conversations!

Day 5 We set off bright and early for our road trip. Now there’s not much to see at all in New Caledonia apart from landscapes. All the interesting architecture is in Noumea. So the rest of the pictures will mostly be landscapes. We drove for 4 hours today and stopped at Kone for the night. Accommodation – we called ahead and booked. We didn’t bother with booking.com or Airbnb. We stayed at Eden Aparthotel. It has a kitchenette, swimming pool and cost us about $130 for a family room with a king sized bed and a single bed. Our first stop was Boulouparis. A largish town. It has a nice centre, some nice plants to look at and that’s about it. Then La Foa.Then we drove some more, found some brown signs and followed it. It led us to a rock formation. We had a quick dip (about 30 minutes) in the sea and scouted the rest of the interesting rock formations. This is in Bourail which although showed a largish settlement on the map; was very tiny when we got there!La Roche PerceeWe had the whole beach to ourselves but we’re used to that hehe. Spoilt by NZ!A resort in Bourail with a traditional meeting house. It brought back a lot of childhood memories for me. I am keener than ever to take my whole family to visit Nigeria before we lose all these structures and even values that make up the whole of my childhood.Very clear but shallow sea. You have to walk about a mile in to be able to swim. It’s great for the children to paddle in. It was very, very warm!She preferred the playground toys to being in the sea. Oh well… priorities!We decided to stop for food, found a snack place and went in at Bourail. They had food yay! But the owner proceeded to rub out the price of some meals – rice and curry- and up them by 400 francs which is about $2.50. However, it took the cost of each meal from 2000 francs to 2400 francs. On principle, we opted for the cheapest meals. Apparently they had run out of those ones so we went for the next cheapest which is a chicken baguette. Good thing we bought only 3 for 5 of us! This is half the size of 1. Very tasty and filling! It cost 700fr which is about $6 ish. Therefore a very cheap meal.We got missing trying to find the hotel at Kone. We ended up driving round the town and got stopped by the police. I swear we did nothing wrong! 😂 There were about 4 of them standing across the road, effectively blocking it. We stopped and said ‘Bonjour! One asked for Andrew’s licence, the other looked at us closely and asked where we were from. England we replied. He asked if we were from London and I said no. About 2 hours outside London. Norwich?! He asked excitedly. How weirdly coincidental! We said yes! Have you been? No, he replied. It has my favourite football club! See Norfolk is good for something! We got waved on with no further issues or questions. They didn’t even check our licences! We finally got in and settled into make dinner and then bed. Agaba was annoyed about the hotel. He was adamant that it was not a hotel because it’s like a house and not big and tall with many windows. Oh dear…we named it the Red house to calm him down. He accepted it was the red house and not a hotel. Phew!

Day 6. We set off bright and early for Tiabet via Poum. It marks the northernmost point of New Caledonia. We stopped at Voh and tried to find the viewpoint for the heart of Voh. Without success. The other thing about New Caledonia is that you find a brown sign with an arrow vaguely pointing somewhere. You follow it and that’s it. No more information as to where to head to! Which then leads to driving round trying to find the attraction! We stopped at Koumac, bought some lunch and had some ice cream. We stopped and had a car picnic then continued the journey. Again, there isn’t much to see apart from the changing landscape. The north is again very different. Vivid colours of orange, red and white streak through the earth. The roads are a bit narrower and mainly packed earth. We pass only a few cars. Agbenu gets very car sick as do I. As long as I’m driving, I’m fine. Otherwise, I’m not. Seeing as Agbenu is 3, her driving is not an option. Luckily, her speech is good enough that she alerts us to when she starts feeling queasy. When I heard, ‘my stomach hurts’, I just handed her a bag. She’s also very good at aiming into the bag. This time though, it was a bit too much for Onyaidu too who proceeded to show solidarity by throwing up all over her seat and her sister. Yay! All that ice cream came back a very lovely pink colour! Clean up duly done, we head off again and made it to the very tip of New Caledonia

Obligatory family pictureHaving reached the northernmost tip, well as far as a car can go, we turn round and head back the way we came towards Hienghene, pronounced HeeHee. We cross the first of the mountain passes. The road is windy, bendy and very narrow. It also had the most dramatic scenery. My phone’s camera cannot capture the majestic beauty or grandeur that we see! We finally came to the end of the road. To continue, we need to use the ferry service which will take us across the river. What we failed to do was check the ferry crossing times. Luckily for us, the ferry operator was there! The ferry crossing is free. It is also the only way to get from the north to the east. It’s a short ferry ride. About 10 minutes but it’s a memorable experience. The ferry service is also about to close and make way for a bridge which is probably more practical but not as nice.

 

We arrive our accommodation. It’s a lovely resort with traditional bungalows built to accommodate guests. There are 60 bungalows so it’s a big complex. As there’s nothing much in nearby Hienghene, we opt to pay for dinner which is a buffet. We paid for a family room which has a king size bed, a sofa bed and a single bed. The complex is un-fenced and hemmed in by the sea. It’s peaceful and one is lulled by the wind and the swaying coconut trees. Like every tropical island, New Caledonia is full of coconut trees. Our accommodation cost is 12,000fr and dinner is almost 16000fr for all of us so dinner cost even more than the accommodation. It’s a 3 course sit down meal and there’s a whole raft of food. There’s bougane, the local dish of the Kanaks which I excitedly try. It was made with lamb which is the only meat I hate. You can ask to have your meat or fish cooked to order. Dinner done and dusted. We head to bed.

Day 7 We’re firmly on the east coast now. It is wild and rugged. Some of the roads are not tarred. There’s also a lot of road erosion. We go through the 3rd of our 4 mountain passes for the day at Canala to Thio. It’s called the scheduled road because there’s a schedule of how cars should cross it. It’s a 13km road, completely unsealed with a precipitous drop on one side. From the Canala end, cars can drive through at even hours but only in the first 20 minutes of the hour. From the Thio end, cars can drive through at odd hours also only in the first 20 minutes. In theory, this means you should meet no other cars as you drive through. The problem is, it is self regulated so one cannot guarantee that someone won’t start driving into the other end when they shouldn’t. It’s also only scheduled between 7am and 5pm so daylight hours. It’s free for all after dark! Yes, we did come across a muppet who must have driven through when it was not time for him to and yes we drove through when we should have. It was also daytime. Luckily there was enough shrubland that we could pull into and squeeze past each other!

Our plan was to spend the night in Thio but we could not find any accommodation for love or money. There was just none. We decided to drive the 3 hours back to Noumea. It was a relief to get back! We spent the next day lazying round the house and woke up to a shocker on Friday morning.

Good Friday morning. Not a very good Friday here for us. Agaba woke me at the crack of dawn as usual. I went into the living room to get him his kindle so he could head back to bed and leave me with my lie in. The kindles (we have one for each child) were not where I left then charging the previous night which was on a stool under the stairs. Assuming Andrew moved them to the kitchen, I stumble half asleep into the kitchen and I stop short. Although the back door is closed, there is a pair of unknown shoes in the doorway to the laundry/ back store room. I then notice a half drunk bottle of alcoholic cooking syrup. It wasn’t left there by me. I walk back into the living room. My heart was racing at this point as I know all is not well. I look up and the mezzanine lights are on. I decide someone is in the house and go wake Andrew. He hurriedly gets dressed and goes up the mezzanine. There’s no one there. This is when I also realise our laptops are missing from the dining table. We conclude we’ve been burgled. We walk round and the wine chiller has been broken into (held about 30 bottles of wine), Andrew’s backpack has been taken – these contain our passports as we always carry them on us when out and about. The fridge has been cleared out of everything apart from the opened bottle of milk. We had done some food shopping the previous day and left some of the food on the work top (pasties, bread etc) all gone. We call the police and run into our first barrier. They speak no English and our French is poor. We’re asked to call back at 8am. It’s now just before 7am. I find the house instructions the owners left and meticulously dial all the numbers on there. The first 3 don’t pick. I then email the lady and ask her to please contact someone on our behalf. The fourth number was picked. It was her daughter – who’s English was also not very good so she gave me another number. Turned out to be her boyfriend who spoke excellent English. I managed to tell him what the issue was. He came round within 15 minutes and called the police. As he was arriving, I also got a call from the house owner who was in our own home back in NZ. It was the first of many international roaming calls in the next week. The police arrived, took our statements and combed the area. In the meantime, we cancelled all our bank cards and deliberated what to do about our return trip which was supposed to be Sunday! We also discovered the burglars took the rental car keys – a quick run to the road showed the van was still there – and the house keys. The house locks had to be changed and the rental car company SIXT; refused to swap the car over for us, preferring to bring us another key. Ok. They weren’t worried at all that someone was roaming around with a key to a van located somewhere they knew…To make matters worse, it was a public holiday being Easter Friday. The police found our cards in the bushes but we’d already cancelled all our cards. That left us with no money for a while. Luckily, having a Transferwise card meant blocking or cancelling the card was a matter of freezing it on the app to stop it being used. I unblocked it and put a hold on any transactions that was not chip and pin. This would ensure that even if it has been used for online purchases, those payments will not go through as we will have to transfer a substantial amount onto it to enable us survive the next few days. Andrew called the travel insurance company to find out what cover we have. It turns out, they will cover everything from Sunday which is the day we were due to depart – accommodation, extending car hire, replacing flights and travel documents. This is where the super, duper extra cover came into it’s own. We contact the UK high commission in Wellington and get routed to the Foreign Office in London. The lady very ‘helpfully’ tells us to wait till Tuesday and contact the Wellington office again and to call our insurance company. I was really surprised that there was no emergency contact. Interviews finally over, we head to the police station to make a formal statement. It took us almost 3 hours. D and A (the host’s daughter and boyfriend) spent the whole time with us. They basically had to take the day off work. They suggested we try the New Zealand Consulate as it’s not a public holiday in New Caledonia. They were closed but there was a number to call on the door. We opt not to call as we were not New Zealand citizens. Big mistake! We head back to the house via the shops. We have a meal and settled down for bed. We are very unsettled and try to put the house alarm on. We only ever put it on when we went out. It kept triggering as it’s motion sensor operated which in turn kept making us more jittery. Andrew finally worked out how to isolate the bedrooms from the alarm and we set it. We also went round and added our own form of security by propping chairs under door handles. It turns out that burglary is a massive, massive issue in Noumea. Although most houses are gated, we didn’t link it to crime prevention. According to the police, they received upto a dozen reports weekly. New Caledonia has less then 300k people in total scattered across the whole country which includes lots of islands. Noumea probably has about 150k people. That is a lot of burglaries on a weekly basis. We were also informed that houses used as Airbnbs were targeted more. So basically tourists were targeted. We also decided to bring the car into the compound. Not only is the drive very steep, it also curves round to lead to the car port. D warned us against parking it on the drive as the van was so big. She told us hilarious stories of her parents always driving into the walls of the house and the fence. We didn’t feel comfortable leaving it on the road so took the risk of parking it just inside the gates. We wake up on the Saturday a bit refreshed. I am amazed that I managed to sleep at all and feel relieved that we had an uneventful night until I was out to the outside sitting area and find Andrew’s shoes…remember I saw a pair of unknown shoes which alerted me that something was not right? Well one of them left their shoes and wore Andrew’s shoes away. The police walked round the whole perimeter and I did as well. It was impossible to miss the shoes. This left me a bit panicked. Did they return last night too? Thankfully, it did mean Andrew had shoes to wear! The previous day, he had to borrow flip flops from A. Of course, we didn’t like this new development. There is a shed/ workshop beside the house with machetes in it. We used it on the Thursday to cut down the ripe bananas. Andrew went round that way and realised those were all gone. We decide we’re not spending the night there and spend sometime finding accommodation. We find one on booking.com. I suggest we book it, Andrew felt we should drive there so we did. It got booked before we got there! We booked for the next 4 nights and head back to the house. Unfortunately, the host lady seemed a lot more concerned about their wine stash than what we’d been through. She also seemed determined to get me to prove we didn’t leave the back door open because when they arrived our house, one of the lounge windows was open. I reminded her that our cleaner left our house 1 hour before they arrived, our suburb is very safe and our neighbours (surrounded on all sides) would totally challenge anyone looking sketchy around the house! I also reminded her that my house manual runs to almost 21 pages and details almost every possible scenario and how to deal with it as most of the people we swap with are new to New Zealand and need guidance. Her very first mistake was not informing us that security was very paramount! We never bothered to put the alarms on at night, we didn’t use any of the deadbolts, we left the keys in the lock after locking the doors (that’s how the burglars came in, with the aid of the cat flap). Of course, we subsequently removed the keys and took them to bed with us. She seemed to become more reasonable after that and said to not dwell on the incident but to try and keep the memories of the good times we had. Another uneventful night and we head off to our accommodation for the next 4 days. We moved to Dumbea in the mountains and much more closer to the airport. It was a beautiful stunning place nestled in the foot of the mountains. We hired a 2 bedroom gite with cooking, parking and washing facilities. There are only 3 other gites but the lady is so busy, they were booked out throughout. We spent the next few days waiting impatiently for Tuesday.

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The children had so much fun there. We regularly had to go looking for them at night. The gite next door had a family with a little girl and a dog staying. All stayed out late larking about.20190427_070441.jpg

 

TUESDAY, 23rd April 2019. 2 days after we were supposed to be back in Auckland, we finally contact the UK high commission in Wellington. First she pooh pooh’s any idea of us getting our travel documents before Thursday, then she informs us that the London Office should have put us in touch with the NZ consulate in Noumea as it’s the UK’s friendly consulate. Whaat???!! We could have started this process on the Friday?! Response is yes. Apparently, the UK has friendly consulates where they have none. These friendly consulates basically support UK citizens the way the UK consulate would do. Then she tells us, we also have to arrange to have the travel documents couriered from NZ to Noumea. Thursday 25th was our preferred return date. It is also ANZAC day which makes it a bank holiday in NZ. We call the NZ consulate in Noumea and they say come anytime today. We get there and they are closed for the afternoon break. We got there at 11.30am. Turns out they close from 11am to 1.30pm. I was so tired, I just sat on the pavement. You know that kind of tiredness that is not physical… As we debated what to do, a car pulled up beside the building and makes a call. I only notice this happening absent-mindedly. A few minutes later, the door opens. The car driver is the husband of one of the consular officers and he called her to say there were stragglers (that’s not what he said!) in front of her office.  She apologised, ushered us in and we completed the necessary forms, took pictures, made payments etc. I also used to opportunity to call a friend in NZ to liaise with the UK High Commission on our behalf as we had to courier the passports to ourselves! Satisfied that we may potentially be heading home on the Thursday, we head back to our accommodation. Only to be greeted by lots of missed calls from NZ. Turns out 1. The earliest we can get travel documents from NZ is a week from that day. 2. We need to book flights first as the travel documents are single use and is tied to a certain day and flight. 3. No courier company could guarantee we would get the documents by Friday at the latest because Thursday is a bank holiday. More deflation. The lady from the Wellington office suggested to the NZ consulate about contacting any other EU country’s HC to see if they would issue us a travel document as we are EU citizens (hmnn one of the pitfalls of Brexit!), that was also a no go. A couple of hours brainstorming later, it was decided the documents could be issued from Sydney. There were more courier companies flying to NC from Sydney but we had to call to arrange for a collection first and confirm that we would get the documents on the Friday. We called DHL in Sydney, booked and paid for a collection then started the drama of trying to book flights. We choose to fly on the Sunday in the event that we had issues collecting the passports on the Friday. We did call AirNZ to cancel our flights after the burglary and they promised to credit our cancelled flight as a credit towards future travel. When we called to book the flights for Sunday, we were told our new one way tickets will cost a whooping $4300. For a 2.5 hour flight and that the credit had been applied. Needless to say, we were floored. We certainly did not have that amount of money sitting in our accounts just waiting to be spent! Remember we had also paid out for new accommodation totaling $1,600, extra car hire for $560, passport application for $1000, not to mention incidentals like feeding, petrol, loading our phones to use Viber where we could etc. So much for a quick and cheap holiday! After some deliberation, we call Andrew’s father and he sent us some money. It was then another drama to transfer the money to our Transferwise card as the internet kept dropping out. Again, we had to reach out to our friend in NZ to effect this transfer. AirNZ agreed to hold the flights at that price for 3 hours. After some to and fro with the Sydeny office (it was way beyond her closing time too!), we finally agreed the travel documents will be issued for Sunday’s flights and we hoped fervently that we could get the money to book the flights that day!

Almost 2 hours and several dropped calls later, the flights were booked. The next afternoon, we received an email from Sydney that the travel documents had been picked by DHL. Phew! We settled down to wait for Friday.

Thursday, we went sight seeing to Sarramea. Again, nothing much to see except landscapes. Sarramea is a small, lovely community. We found Soursop! Yay! It was a honesty box system…proof that stealing was mainly in Noumea…we paid and drove back to Dumbea.

Andrew and the children buying some soursop. Notice the lack of a seller!20190421_095837.jpgIMG-20190422-WA0004.jpg

Church just outside Noumea. The building looked interesting…20190426_163509.jpg

Chinese quarter in Noumea20190423_130443.jpg

Friday morning and afternoon came and went. At 3pm with no news from DHL, we became jittery and called them. They assured us our documents had arrived and would be delivered latest by Tuesday!!! I lost it a bit and did a lot of shouting and swearing. Good thing my French is poor and their English poor. We agreed to drive in to pick it up. The only catch, they close at 4pm and do not open on Saturdays. It was also rush hour. We got to the city and the initial address given was wrong. We made it to the DHL office just after 4pm and collected the documents with a huge sigh of relief.

I’d never been so glad to receive a letter!20190426_171417.jpg

Saturday dawned rainy and foggy, we checked out of the gite and went for lunch, then headed to Paita to check into our hotel for the night. Paita is 15 minutes away from the airport hence booking a hotel there. But no, New Caledonia was not done with us! I was with Andrew when he called 4 days prior to book the accommodation. We were assured we could pay on arrival. We did offer to pay on the day we booked. We arrived to the hotel staff having absolutely no idea about our booking. Needless to say, we were not very pleased. We needed cooking facilities to cook dinner and at least have breakfast before heading to the airport. A few gestures and some Franglais later, we were offered adjoining rooms and some cooking facilities…at the manager’s house! We decided to take it, checked in and headed to the pool. 5pm, I walk over to the manager’s house with some noodles, eggs and already cooked meat to heat up. I get there to find 3 dogs. 2 chained up by the front door and one sunning itself in the kitchen. The house is open. I called, out, knocked and called out some more. The dogs just watched with amusement. I gingerly let myself in. It’s open and no one is home. I find the lights, switch them on and try to work the stove. All the while my heart is pounding. What if someone walks in and bludgeons me? What if doggy decided to not humour me anymore and makes a move? I decide to use only the microwave and cook the noodles secondary school style. I break them into a bowl, add water and set it to 10 minutes in the microwave. I boil the eggs in the kettle- I know!!! I heat up the meat and by now, it’s completely dark outside. It totally increases my paranoia. Food ready, I find some plates, cutlery and set off the 5 minutes walk back to our room. I kept looking back. The dogs were totally disinterested in all my actions. Phew!

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Dinner done and dusted, we head to bed. It’s a turning and twisting night for Andrew and myself. We pride ourselves on making it to the airport just in time for check in. This time, we arrived the airport 3 hours early. Everything went smoothly! The immigration staff did show each other our passports saying they’d never seen it before but that was all. They also apologised for our experience. We’d bought some pastries for breakfast so found a table and fed the kids and ourselves. The flight back was also completely uneventful. The immigration staff at Auckland had been briefed about us and her first words to us was, ‘Welcome Home!’

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New Caledonia is beautiful and we will return one day, after exploring all the other islands too. No, this hasn’t put us off travel. The good and bad experiences make the sum total of our memories. Plus it could totally have happened even at home! New Caledonia is country 24 for Andrew and myself, 18 for Agaba and 16 for the girls so something like this was bound to happen sooner rather than later!

Now to collate all the needed receipts and put in that travel insurance claim. This will be fun!

 

SINGAPORE

We arrived Singapore at 10pm and found it very easy to find our way to immigration. The children did not sleep a wink on the whole 8 hour flight and neither did we! Because we had also been sat in the front row – yay leg room – it meant, the children couldn’t use the screens for a hour or so into the flight. Taxi, queuing, take off, turbulence… and it also meant the screens had to be stowed away a good while before landing. So there were some tantrums! We had the kindles but we had not downloaded anything as the selection on the plane was so good. Lesson learnt! Always have back up! We join the immigration queue and just before it’s our turn, I hear the dreaded words, ‘Poo poo mama!’ With a sprint that will definitely put Usain Bolt to shame, I get C back upstairs and to the toilet. And no, she did not poo or wee but had a big glug of water. I was tired and cranky and so were all the children.

We got through and followed the signs. We needed to head to T1 to catch the metro to our hotel. Oh the hotel! This is one of the perils of writing after the fact! Our Singapore accommodation got cancelled on us about a week before we were due to arrive. I unsuccessfully tried to find another place on Airbnb. I then realise that Airbnb is banned in most buildings in Singapore. I turned to the swap sites hoping that as most people were away, we’d have some luck. None really – I did get a lot of replies. Most had their keys with them where they had gone and of course couldn’t get it to us. Others didn’t even get my message till they returned in the New Year! We took to monitoring booking.com daily for price drops. Now most hotels will drop prices a few days out to get their rooms booked. We decided to spend New Year eve at the airport back at the Aerotel and then book accommodation from the 1st of Jan as that would keep our costs down. Anyway, I stroll through booking.com as you do about 3 days before our flight and this hotel had a price drop but it’s listed for 2 adults and 2 children. So we called them up and they were happy to book us into a 1 bedroom suite at Park Avenue Changi Hotel. It is close to the airport – 1 metro stop away and has enough space for us all plus cooking facilities. The best of it all, we didn’t have to watch the fireworks from the runway!

We found the metro station and collected our luggage – yes I was overcome by my Nigerianess and acquired a suitcase! Lord help me! Agaba needed a ticket as he was over 0.9m tall. To be fair he was taller than most children his age there! However, we could only get his pass at the main stations. We purchased the Netts cards as those double as a bus/ train pass but can also be used in certain restaurants, shops and places of interest. These were better value for money as if there’s money left on the cards by the time we leave, we could always use it at the shops. Public transport is very cheap and accessible in Singapore. Between the metro and the buses, you can get everywhere! The hotel was easy to find. It was located by EXPO and is in a business district, not that you’d know that. The heat, oh God the heat! It was humid, we were sweaty and sticky and all just needed somewhere cool! We checked in fairly easily, found some dinner downstairs (everywhere open for more or less 24 hours!) and off to bed we went!

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Waiting by immigration. Let me in!

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A big welcome to Singapore.

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The MRT station – directly across the road from our hotel

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Andrew for scale! He’s standing by what would be his bed for the next 5 nights. I had the pleasure of sleeping on the sofa. It was very comfy

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Fully fitted kitchen and a washer dryer that actually dried clothes!

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Free smartphone with WiFi access.

We woke quite late. This remained a recurring theme of our stay in Singapore. There were a few eateries and a very large supermarket – FairPrice – by the hotel. We had some breakfast and discovered that we’d been provided with a mobile phone for our use. It had our names – of course, programmed into it and had apps and as well as recommendations on what to do and see and discounts on things. It also had internet! The battery lasted all day, never dropped below 70% even though we used it heavily for browsing whilst out and about. We could also call certain countries for free including the UK, Australia, US and some other countries that were not useful to me so I can’t remember!

We decided to head off to China Town. We crossed the road to the Metro Station and it was easy to see which stations we needed and where to get off etc. People were very friendly and chatty. My pre-conceived impressions were actually very wrong which is a pleasant experience.

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First (well 2nd) Metro trip

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I was struck by how clean everywhere is!

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Food tables everywhere. Kept very clean and pristine

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Cooling down

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A Buddhist temple in Chinatown

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Inside the temple

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It was the dragon festival. Lots of dragons about

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More dragons

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We spent the whole day walking round, visiting temples, watching the dragon street shows and competitions and eating street food. The food was wholesome, hearty and quite cheap. We spent about $30 on food, drinks and ice lollies which was very good value. We decided to take the scenic route home and took the bus.

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I was impressed by the commitment to provide green spaces everywhere. Even in multi storey building!

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Enjoying the bus ride

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Bus stop decoration! Good thing about sitting in a double decker bus, you can see these hidden gems atop buildings!

We again got back the apartment shattered! Over the course of our trip, we noticed C has started stuttering. Initially it was amusing but as she didn’t stop after a few days, I was getting worried especially as she’s never stuttered and she’s the most linguistically advanced of the children. However it still seemed to continue. Interestingly though, she wasn’t continually stuttering since we’d been in Singapore. We’d been counting down the flights to going home and were down to 2 flights till we get home rather the 10 we started off with. It was raining on our way back to the hotel which was an absolute relief. I’d always told Andrew how much we enjoyed running around in the rain as children (I did it a lot as an adult too but…) He never quite got how that could till this very day. One minute, we had sweat pouring down our bodies and the next there was this cooling mist. If you stayed out of the rain, it remained muggy. Step into it and you cool down! Of course we did end up getting all wet but who cares!

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We also took advantage of the pool in Abu Dhabi and the children were doing great with their swimming. We were glad to see this hotel had a pool as well. So we had dinner and went off to the pool. The children absolutely loved it and so did we. It was a roof top pool and we could watch the planes coming in to land or taking off.

Day 2 – we thought we would head to Legoland, Malaysia. There are buses that you could book to take you across all the way including through immigration. We had brunch – woke up late again, stepped out and decided it was too hot and humid and went off to Little India instead. Again we walked round, ate lots of street food but just before we were about to head off, G projectile vomited everywhere. All over the table, her clothes and of course me. I looked round in a I’m totally f…ked way but one of the attendants came over (there are cleaner who go round cleaning all the tables and clearing away paper plates, cups etc) and said not to worry. I had a gazillion packet of wipes – as you do when you have little one and cleaned her up, plus changed her clothes and cleaned myself. I had no change of clothes. I tried to offer him a tip and he refused it. None of the other diners even batted an eyelid. I was super impressed. I could hear all the tutting and shuffling away from us that would have happened had I been somewhere public in the UK. We also overpaid the food stall owner by about $50. He sought us out and gave us back the excess. I worried about getting on the bus or metro back. It was an hour’s ride and rush hour. Luckily, everyone promptly fell asleep! More luckily, I’m not emetophobic as I had G on my lap to let others sit (the bus was packed) and somehow, she got vomit in her hair so I had that fabulous aroma to inhale for just over 1 hour!

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A few minutes later, all that came back out!

We got the wrong bus back so got off about a 40 minute walk away from the hotel and meandered our way through the streets back. It was great because we could see the local area and also get the children to walk as it was almost 7pm therefore a definite late night! But boy was it humid! We were drenched in sweat by the time we got in. So it was change to swim suits and pool time! There’s a saying that there are only two seasons in Singapore. Hot and Hotter. We were visiting in hot weather! The temperatures averaged 26 degrees!

Day 3 – again we woke late, had brunch and decided to visit the world famous Marina Bay Gardens. It was awesome! I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves. Singapore is one of the countries that offers free tours if you have a layover of 8 hours or more. It’s also not restricted to certain passports. The Marina Bay Gardens is one of the tours offered. Do it! Build a layover in and see it! It is a massive place. You need at least half a day to thoroughly enjoy it.

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On our way back, we went in search of more street food but opted to find one in the residential areas close to the hotel. We went towards Tampines East and found a whole array of street food vendors – handy mobile phone with free internet win! No, we were not put off by the previous night’s food and throwing up episode. We had typical Singaporean fare instead. It was pricier than most but came to around $70 for meals and the biggest jug of smoothie I’ve ever seen and no, I didn’t take any pictures once the food arrived. We just ate!

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Day 4 – we pottered around the local area and spent most of the day in the pool. It was the only way to cope with the heat! It was also our last night in Singapore. Our flight was not till Friday night the next day which meant we still had the whole day to explore.

Day 5 – we checked out of the hotel and they held our luggage for free so we went off to Sentosa Island. We decided we certainly didn’t have the time to see all of Sentosa Island therefore we would spend the most time at the Aquarium. It was the world’s largest aquarium when it was built and it was impressive!!! There is lots to do and see on Sentosa Island. You need a at least 2/3 days to see it properly and take everything in. It’s also a self sufficient Island with hotels, ATMs, food courts and there’s a huge shopping mall at the start of the walkway.

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Cable cars for those who prefer the aerial route to Sentosa. We walked across the bridge. It took about 8 minutes and it was a very pleasant walk. Also mostly under cover

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Some new gizmo structure being built. It looked very alien like

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We didn’t make it to Universal Studios or the theme park but they all share the same entrance with the Aquarium

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We left Sentosa Island at 4pm back to the hotel. We were all checked in by 6pm and went off in search of dinner. Our flight left at 9pm for Melbourne. We arrived in Melbourne bright and early, had some breakfast in the waiting area (we only had a 1 hour layover) and cleared security for our next flight. We got upstairs and I realised I’d lost my phone. I couldn’t go back to security. The elevator was one way only which was going up. I found a call bell and pressed it. The security agents were so lovely. There was no annoyed looks or sighs. They sent someone up who led me all the way through back to where we came off the plane. I retraced my steps and found the phone propped up on a ledge by the toilet. I must have forgotten it when I took the girls in to change them earlier. I felt so relieved! It was a borrowed phone too! If you’re reading this Becky, your phone is fine!!!

We had a budget for $500 in Singapore for 5 days and spent every last penny! For all our spending, we used a Transferwise MasterCard. It doubles as a debit and cash card. I opened a Transferwise Borderless account before we left and pre-loaded the currencies of the different countries we were visiting except Jordan. There was no Jordanian currency so all spends came out of the currency with the lowest conversion rate and highest exchange rate which was the Dinar – makes sense as it’s close by. So we had euros, dirhams, Singapore dollars, NZD dollars and UK pounds loaded onto the card. All serviced from our UK account. I also had the Transferwise app so could keep an eye on our daily spending plus I can instantly freeze the card in the event of loss of theft. We went with £2500/ $5000NZD spending money for the 30 days and returned with £82/$164NZD. Not too bad for a family of 5 which increased to a family of 8 for 10 days of the trip. I also bought a phone for £400 out of that spending money!

We decided we have to definitely return to Singapore and spend some good time there! Oh, we also didn’t get Delhi belly. I guess it was just a case of eating too much and the heat!

Now to start planning for our next trip!

Abu Dhabi, UAE

The flight to Amman and then Dubai was uneventful. I wish I could say the same for the check in and luggage collection process. We chose to travel with only hand luggage. That is not very typical for me as a Nigerian. We’re used to lugging mountains of suitcases filled with shopping for every conceivable member of the family plus things from the cousins, sisters, grandmothers, great, grand aunts, brother of the wife of a cousin…you get the gist. So of course Onyaidu Snr had a suitcase she wanted me to take to Regie. My first instinct was to say no, ‘Ain’t taking it!’ My Nigerian side somehow said yes. The crucial point is that even though we were transiting at Amman, we did not book transit flights. We had separate flight bookings. It was a small suitcase – I would describe it as cabin sized but Aegean disagreed and asked us to check it into the hold for free. Andrew specifically asked her if we would need to clear immigration (fees to pay) to collect the suitcase and the lady said no. She has noted that it should be transferred to our Emirates flight. I was dubious. Of course, we got to Amman and nothing of such nature had happened. We would need to clear immigration (that would be 40JOD x 5 plus 10 JOD x 5 exit fees) That would actually pay to ship the blasted case from Cyprus to Nigeria! The immigration officials were very helpful and said to go the tickets office instead. At least they didn’t say ‘We don’t know!”

Back at the help desk, we gave all our names, flights details, DNA information etc and were assured our bag would be transferred to the flight for Dubai. We settled for the wait and …

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We found Andrew’s doppelganger!

We were sad to leave Onyaidu Snr but also excited about meeting Regie and the kids! Again we last saw them in April 2015 so a long time ago. We planned to spend 10 days in Abu Dhabi. It was the longest we were staying in one place but it was justified as this was basically to spend quality time together with family. We booked accommodation at Jannah Al Sarab Hotel. Remember my father was supposed to join us? Well after purchasing his tickets and paying for his visa, he decided 5 days before the trip that he wouldn’t be able to make it. Considering we already have a very fractured relationship, I was incensed and to be honest, I still am so I will not say much on that. (This is where the British side of my family dispense me 🙈🙈)

Thanks to my sister not getting her act together on time, we didn’t book our accommodation till the 1st week of December. This meant we paid a premium for the rooms. There were large, spacious and had kitchenettes but at $4000 for 10 nights, they were not cheap. We arrived Dubai around 10pm and got to the luggage carousel. Surprise, surprise! Yep, our suitcase did not arrive. Again, we all trudged over the the airline office – bear in mind we had all our luggage and all we need with us. In our backpacks! Anyho, a good 35 minutes later and all our details taken down, it transpired the suitcase had not been transferred to our flight after all! We were assured we would get it though and it would be taken to our hotel. Sigh…

We took a taxi to Abu Dhabi. Got there just after midnight, checked in and checked into bed! A good 10 hours plus later, we emerge for breakfast, a stroll round and back to the hotel as were were expecting my sister and her children that afternoon. They arrived around 6pm, we all had dinner and the children proceeded to break a mirror! All by accident of course! A call and chat with the hotel manager set us back 350 dirhams…

We spent a leisurely 10 days in Abu Dhabi, braved the public transport to Dubai once and decided the whole of the UAE wasn’t for us. We have thought about moving there for work but the financial gain will not make up for the loss in other areas for us. Public transport in the whole of UAE is segregated. The women sit in front and the men behind. There’s the no man’s land space in the middle of the bus. However, during rush hour that space is filled with both men and women squashed into each other. What’s the point of segregating then? For us, it was a bit of a nightmare as alone with the children, they would sit well and nicely. But once Andrew and I were both in the bus albeit in the different sections, they fought, want to go sit with daddy or mama, throw tantrums. I guess the alternative is to hire a car. But we shouldn’t need to. The public transport was adequate for our needs. The most bizarre situation was getting on the bus from Dubai back to Abu Dhabi. Time was around 7pm on a workday – Andrew had to go into their Dubai branch office. The queues snaked all the way round the bus station. 2 queues for 2 buses. 1 male and 1 female. The journey is almost 2 hours. We started off by queuing separately and as we got closer to the buses, I thought hang on…this is mad! So Andrew came to join us. Once they ascertained we were a family, he was let on the bus but he was the only male in the whole coach of about 90 people! We also had occasions when I or my sister would request or say something and were looked at blankly or the response was directed at Andrew. Whatevs!!! I was prepared for that though and for my sister, it didn’t really register on her radar as we grew up in Northern Nigeria where it’s the norm for men to speak for women and the expectation is also that the men pay for everything. That did stump the waiters a bit. They’d hand the bill to Andrew, I then make payment. You can sort of see them trying to decide if they’d done the wrong thing or not! By the 2nd night of eating in our regular local eatery, the guys got the hang on waiting for me to order and handing the bill over to me. Kudos to them!

There was a distinct lack of greenery and parks. We did take the bus to Al Maryam island to visit a purpose built park there. It was a lovely park and had lots to do. It was also very obvious that all the parents at the park were expats and quite a lot of nannies. I was mistaken for a nanny twice – not the first time and probably certainly will not be the last time!

We mostly walked everywhere and ate at the local cafes near the hotel. There were a few scattered parks which we explored with the children. The only touristy activity we did was go see the mosque. Oh and we spent some time in the malls – sister did a lot of shopping! Ok, I confess, I also bought myself a shiny new smart phone! It was almost half the price of what it would have cost in NZ!

Food and spending moneywise – we budgeted £500 or $1000 and spent it all. For the taxi from the airport, we arranged it through the hotel and it was 450 dirhams/ £94/ $180 ish. For the taxi back to the airport, we found our own local taxi driver. It was a grand total of 200 dirhams/ £42/ $85 ish. The 2nd taxi driver picked and dropped my sister first then came for us the next day.

Oh! Our suitcase did arrive the next day but when they called the hotel to ask for me, they were told there was no Mrs J Radford booked there. Even though I booked and paid for the rooms, they were booked under Andrew’s name and they had no common sense whatsoever to call and check if indeed any Mrs Radford was included in the booking! Sheesh!

I was convinced our flight out of Dubai was at 9pm. The night before our flight, it turned out that it was a 9am flight! Cue frantic calls trying to re-arrange our transport times. Phew! That was a good save!

Anyway, sights and sounds of Abu Dhabi below!

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque – we went by public transport. Took about an hour each way and cost 4 dirhams per person for transport. Entry to the mosque is free but there are long queues. Dress very modestly or you can borrow one of the dresses there.

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Brings back memories of living in northern Nigeria

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First glimpse from the road

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The are free golf cart rides from the gate to the mosque entrance. It was very much welcome as it was hot, humid and very muggy

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Cousins

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There’s always one

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The shimmery courtyard

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Lots of gold everywhere

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Main prayer hall

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Christmas Day we had lunch at Yadoo’s House. It was excellent traditional food in traditional settings. They also have enclosed booths for those that don’t want to be watched whilst eating. It was good value for money and very child friendly. Portions were quite large too.

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Enclosed booths in the background. To the right were floor mats and low seats. Andrew wouldn’t have coped there so western style seating it was.

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Our hotel was close to the beach. Naturally, we spent quite some time there. PS – there are no public toilets along the whole length of the promenade which is a good 3/4 mile long. That sucks when you have little children in tow! You can hire bikes and cycle it or skate your way or walk like we did. It is a nice, relaxing and quiet walk. There are rest areas along the whole route and the children delighted in running, jumping, hiding and seeking all the way

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Lots of water features

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Quite a few evenings spent here

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Aww

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Exploring Al Maryam park

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Obligatory Christmas tree photo

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Enjoying Abu Dhabi buses…

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Oops

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Haha I like the dangerous activities like running!

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Obligatory Father Christmas (I’m Nigerian, we don’t do Santa!) photo.

CYPRUS

We were very glad to land in Larnaca. It was a short 45 minute flight from Tel Aviv. It was also very nice to be back in saner climes. Immigration was a breeze as we’re back in the EU. Cyprus was a pleasant surprise. The weather was beautiful – only got cold at night. It was also the cheapest place we went on this trip! Our accommodation for 5 nights came to a grand total of €199 for a large, nicely and tastefully decorated 3 bedroom apartment. Our car hire, a 7 seater Renault was €142 for 4 days. Food was relatively cheap. There’s a LIDL! and the Alpha Omega seemed to be the Cyprus arm of TESCO so we had the comforts of home too. We booked our accommodation in Limassol about an hour’s drive south of Larnaca. Onyaidu – my sister – yes, she and one of my twins share the same name and no, my Onyaidu was not named after my sister. They were both named after my great grand mother. I digress. Onyaidu snr lives in Nicosia and met us at the airport. It was good to see her after 4+ years! Of course the girls didn’t know her and Agaba did not remember her either! He last saw her when he was 14 months old. Anyway, they all quickly re-acquainted themselves. I was still on driver duties. Someone who shall remain unnamed had acquired a taste for being chauffeured around.

We had planned to spend just 4 days in Cyprus but thanks to our horrible experience in Israel, we decided to buy new tickets from Larnaca to Amman and bypass Israel. Our original plan was to return to Israel and travel to the Allenby Bridge to cross over back to Jordan and spend a day and a night exploring Amman before flying to Dubai. Our revised plan – cost us (£500/$1000 for new last minute tickets) means we would fly to Amman and catch the onward flight to Dubai the same day. With this agreed and planned out, we settled to enjoy the next few days!

We spent the next 4 days lounging about and exploring.

Cyprus is full of Roman ruins and has a lot of roman history but our first stop was the Cat Monastery just outside Limassol. We didn’t see any monks but there were lots of cats!

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We couldn’t see something like this and not head there! We have cat lovers in the family. None on this trip mind you

As it was winter, quite a few tourist places were closed but the whole outdoors was open to us anyway! We went to Episkopi, Kouklia, Paphos, up Mount Olympos at Troodos (it was freezing!), Omodos (our favourite place), Platres, Nicosia and Larnaca. The distances are short enough that it’s not a lot of travel. Troodos was the furthest we travelled in a day and that was just over a 90 minutes drive each way.

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A miniature church in the middle of nowhere on the way to Troodos

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Exploring a huge Roman ruin site at Kouklia

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Settling in for a nap

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Amphitheatre at Kourion

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River on the way to Paphos. Beautiful scenery!

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Omodos. A traditional Cypriot village.

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The snacks and sweets! Oh man!!!

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Kourion

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Hanging out with Auntie

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Scenery like this, two a penny!

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The shop keeper at Omodos was very impressed with Andrew. 3 children in 2 years! Superman! Where is my own super??? Eh?

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Exploring more of Kourion. The theatre is massive

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Monastery in Omodos

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Quiet peaceful streets. Apparently in the summer, this place is packed! We liked the emptiness

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Omodos

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More ruins

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And more!

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Yeah, yeah! Very typical

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Lots of yatchs. Big, small, fancy ones.. Paphos

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Fort and Castle in Paphos

 

 

Israel

Passing through immigration in Israel was exactly what I thought it would be. Stern faces, no smiles, bags thoroughly checked, each family member grilled. We were even asked if we were a family and what our relationship to each other was! Agaba was asked questions! Of course, he ran his mouth like a machine gun (pidgin English saying) and gave as much history as possible! The only place I’d ever seen more automatic guns in the hands of military looking people in peace time is in Nigeria – I know! I live a sheltered life haha! I was asked about the origin of our names and the meaning. All in a very firm, stern voice and unsmiling face that I stammered out the answers. The other notable thing was that almost every official there was very young, I would actually say all under 30 years! Or maybe I’m officially old when I start wondering how young the officials and professionals I meet are!

It was easy going to immigration though. They were very efficient. I felt very sorry for the German guy next to us and his friend. Questions were being fired at them left and right and centre and each answer bred a new question. I was so glad to get away before we got more questions fired at us too! We had researched the public transport before hand and knew there was a bus to Jerusalem for 3pm. We exited the immigration palace just after 2pm. Unfortunately the road leading to the bus stop and the main motorway had no shoulder or pavement, luckily for us the road was not busy either! The children were getting tired as it was getting into the afternoon and it was hot. They were cranky and miserable and we had a few tantrums and requests to be carried. The first in this trip actually. With promises of bread – bribery works all the time) bribery, we made it to the bus stop with enough time left to spare. All children bribed, watered and happy, we settled to wait for the bus.

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Bus stop at Eilat

30 mins in, the bus was nowhere to be seen. A bus pulled up for Tel Aviv and we said no. We wanted one to Jerusalem. If only we knew…we would have leapt on that with immediate alacrity!  Ok to give a background…it was a Friday. Friday is the beginning of the sabbath. Technically, the sabbath runs from sundown/set on Friday to sundown/set on Saturday. Realistically which we didn’t know, it starts from any time around 2pm on Friday to sunset on Saturday! I know!!! After spending a full hour at the bus stop and letting our only bus get away, we decided to cross the road and take the a taxi into Eilat so our start in Israel was not the best or the most pleasant and it continued to head downhill from there. We found a taxi and he unceremoniously dumped us at the bus station. I stood by the kerbside with the children and Andrew went into the bus station to find out if we could get a bus to Jerusalem. He came back and reported that although the bus office was open, there was no one there to ask. Apparently, there were people waiting for the Jerusalem bus but they wouldn’t tell him if the bus would run or not. Meanwhile, I was battling a lady who had walked up to me and insisted of offering me accommodation. We chatted a bit and I told her we didn’t need accommodation yet as we have to decide what we want to do. She spent a few moments cursing the taxi driver. As far as she was concerned, he shouldn’t have left us by the roadside with the children. At first, I thought she was a nice lady on my side. You know, parent to parent commiseration. Little did I know…Anyway, Andrew returned (and this is where we do need to learn and adapt another family language to stump people) and we chatted about what to do. Andrew wondered if we should book a place. The lady again jumped in offering us 2 rooms for 250 shekels. I had completely forgotten about her. I told her we haven’t decided na make she calm done. I suggested we take a taxi to Jerusalem. It would be expensive but I just wanted put of the Eilat. Next thing the lady comes over and hands me her mobile phone. She gestures for me to take it and ordered me to talk into it. There was a lady on the other end asking how much I would pay for a taxi to Jerusalem. Shuo! Ga karemin wahala fa? (small problem – complete sarcasm or is it irony? Help me fellow Brits!) Anyway, I asked how much she wanted and she said 2000 shekels. I laughed and said no. Long story short, we negotiated to 1400 shekels which is equivalent to $600. The taxi turned up and immediately asked for money. The lady then asked for money too! I should totally have seen this coming a mile away. I firmly told her no way! If you want money, ask your taxi friend for some. I’ve just handed him 1400 shekels. They should be grateful to you for bringing business their way and settle you accordingly. She then proceeded to speak a torrent of Hebrew at me and it ended with a gob of spit sent my way. She stalked off. I did have 20 shekels I was going to give her. It has better uses. She stalked back as I was closing the booth and asked if I won’t give her anything. I said no. She said anything would do. I thought of my good breeding and gave her the 20 shekels. She got very cross again and said it was fucking ridiculous that I was only giving her 20 shekels. I ignored her and she spat at the car and walked away. Phew…na me buy market. No be her fault at all! Who send me come Israel?! Wakaaboutery no go kill me!

Things took a slightly weirder turn when the taxi driver drove into a petrol station, then out and parked in front of a restaurant. He offered us some sweets. The children jumped on it and I refused. I’m keeping my wits around me in this place. He said he couldn’t take us to Jerusalem as there was an issue with his car. He made some phone calls and said we should wait for a few minutes. I was getting antsy by the minute but trying very hard to keep a lid on my anxiety and anger. A few minutes later, a nice sleek taxi rolled up, said hello and helped us move the children over. He introduced himself (a good start) and off we went. About 10 minutes in, he pulled off the main road. Hian! What’s happening now? I muttered to Andrew under my breath. He took the most roundabout route to a petrol station (you can see the station from the motorway) Why he took us the ‘scenic’ route, we still have no idea. Finally, 2.5 hours or so after we crossed the border (Eilat is a 10 minute drive away from the border) we were finally on our way to Jerusalem. I was not feeling Israel at all.

We arrived Jerusalem at 8.30pm. It was supposed to be a 4 hour drive but the driver made tracks (140/150km consistently) and we made it in 3.10 hours. Got there at 8.30pm. We had researched accommodation a lot and we knew this particular place we went to had rooms available. It was called Shani Hotel. The receptionist said they had 2 double rooms on separate floors and that we should take it like that. I asked if I could connect to their internet and showed him that they actually had family rooms and 2 bedroom suites showing as free on booking .com. That was when he said, yes they did have a lot of unbooked rooms but they had not been cleaned. I asked what would happen if I booked it right now, here and now. He said not to. So i didn’t and went on Airbnb and booked a place that had instant book and was available. We then went off taxi hunting and along the way, found another hotel so I cheekily went in to tap into the internet. The person there was kind enough to give me the password when I discovered I needed one. I then asked about rooms and nope, they don’t do family rooms. By then, the message from the Airbnb host had come through, so we got a taxi and went to the house. Only when we got there, we couldn’t get in. The front door was not obvious and no neighbour was answering knocks. It was almost 10pm at this point. I had asked the driver to wait so I asked him to take us back to the centre where he’d picked us from. I did this for 2 treasons, we had no internet, we also didn’t know the area and it was practically empty of people. If only we knew it was a few minutes walk to the major road through Jerusalem and not far from a shopping complex. We found a largish hotel in the centre and camped the children there with Andrew. I went off and called Airbnb incurring some serious roaming charges. Airbnb was able to go into my account and give me the needed details as it was not not coming up in the app. Another taxi ride and a very light pocket later, we checked in! It was a lovely and spacious flat but very cold. We couldn’t work the heating, we tried, gave up and tumbled into bed at midnight.

We all slept well and woke up refreshed. We managed to work the heating, charged our phones. Then decided to go explore the old city. We had just the whole day in Jerusalem as we were heading to Cyprus via Tel Aviv the evening. It was a nice stroll to the old city. We met a massive contingent of Nigerian pilgrims and spent some time chatting with them too. The old city is big and it easily takes 2 days to really see most of it. It also houses a lot of holy sites. We didn’t attempt going to temple on the mount as there was the most mahoosive queue getting into it. We visited the tomb of King David but weren’t allowed to take pictures. We visited the room of the last supper, where Mary allegedly passed away. Mount Zion and many more places.

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Mount Zion. There’s a hotel there too

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Part of the old city walls. You can walk on the walls and round the perimetre too

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Lots of open spaces. As it was sabbath day, there were also lots of orthodox Jewish ceremonies going on

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Some of the markets in the old city. The street names did bring back a lot of memories of bible study! 

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The wailing wall. There were pilgrims and Orthodox Jews praying there.

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Temple Mount – holiest site of 3 religions and source of conflict as well. Israel currently houses the most holy sites shared by 3 religions in the world. Temple Mount was where the tabernacle housed the Ark of the Covenant

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Temple Mount and Wailing Wall in the background

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Inside the monastery

We explored the local neigbourhood when we returned and had our first fast food of this trip! Also the most expensive KFC meal we’ve ever had! Just before we went to bed, I got a message from the Airbnb host apologising profusely for all the stress we went through and explaining that he a practicing Jew which was why I couldn’t reach him on the Friday evening. His phone was on but as sabbath includes not doing any work or using any form of electricity, it meant he didn’t get my messages. I did say to him he should have had someone monitor his Airbnb listing. He acknowledged that his systems were not set up well and he would look into streamlining them. He also offered to bring us some breakfast on the Sunday before we leave which was very sweet. I did decline.

Sunday morning, we woke a bit early. No idea why and after breakfast and faffing around a bit, it was obvious we were chaffing at the bit to leave so leave we did. We were off to the central bus station from where we would take a bus to Ben Gurion airport in Tel Aviv. Tel Aviv is only about 1 hour away.

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On the way to the airport

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Testing out public transport

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It was easy to find the central station. We made our way to the ticket office. There was a sign there saying buses to Ben Gurion airport were outside the station and to head there. I read it out to Andrew and a guy appeared beside us asking if we were ok. I replied we were. he asked where we were going and I replied heading to the airport. He said the bus stop for it was outside and Andrew said we know as we’ve seen the sign. He then said he was going downstairs and would show us. Andrew was immediately skeptical and said hope he’s not trying to sell us something. He shouldn’t. I replied, we already told him we know where we are going. We should have sneaked away at that point! When we got to the 2nd level, he aske dif we wanted a shuttle taxi and I said no. He lost it. Started shouting in Hebrew, walked off, came back, spat at me ( see how they all spit at me and not Andrew?), stomped off, came back and followed us down the escalator, saying only god knows what in Hebrew and stalked off. We found the bus stop with the help of a young soldier, again there were lots and lots of gun toting young people in military uniform everywhere. Agaba wanted to wee and as I walked him back to the central station – it was a few minutes way – we came across Mr sulky and for good measure, he spat at me again. Chai, I don suffer.

The bus finally turned up! 45 minutes later, we were at the airport and checked in. Thanks to Andrew holding crutches, we got some good treatment – to be fair we deserved it! My verdict? I’m never returning to Israel in my lifetime! How that was going to happen, I don’t know as we have to return in 5 days to pass through to Dubai…

 

Jordan

The flight from Dubai to Jordan was, well odd and very weird. Including the cabin crew, there were about 25 of us on the plane. I was sure the flight would be cancelled! The plane sat 100+ people! But no, fly we did. After the seat belt lights went off, we all choose an aisle each – every single passenger did and went to sleep! It was again an Emirates flight. 36 hours, 4 flights later from Auckland, we arrived Jordan.

It felt like a 100 hours of travel! The children were very good on the flights. They mostly slept or watched a movie. There was not one tantrum! All the air hostesses were very good with them too. Jordan airport was strangely quiet and empty. Not bustling at all. We meandered our way to immigration via the toilets as usual. We wanted a double entry visa because we were heading to Israel and then crossing back into Jordan plus there was no guarantee that we could get entry visas at the land border we wanted to cross at. The immigration website didn’t have clear information and we didn’t want to chance it. Either the immigration officials were being terribly obtuse (yes!) or Andrew and I’s explanations and gesticulations were not enough. Somehow, we ended up with single entry visas…which turned out to first be a good thing and then a bad thing. I know…story for later!

We cleared immigration and realised both phones were out of charge and the car hire person nowhere in sight. Andrew suggested we wait awhile as our flight arrived 20 minutes earlier than scheduled. I went off to find charging points and found some. Agaba then decided to run off somewhere! Grrr – I left the phones charging, Andrew by the arrivals area with the girls and went off after him. He’d run out of the airport. This is where certain communities come into their own. A fella saw him charging off and had run after him as well. He brought him back and I have to say I lost it a bit with Agaba, after thanking the good Samaritan though! Back to the phones – they were still there, I called the car hire guy and he hadn’t even left his office! He turned up about 15 minutes later and we headed out of Amman in the general direction of the south of Jordan. Walking out of the airport was like walking into a a northern Nigerian city during the harmattan period. There was an instant blast of cold air and sand! We didn’t have a planned itinerary because we weren’t sure what Andrew’s pain levels would be. He was still needing the crutches, taking painkillers every 6 hours and daily steroids.

We hired the car from Monte Carlo Car Hire. It was an older car but completely serviceable! It cost us 60JD a day, 21JD a day for extra insurance, 15JD for the booster seats for the children. We also paid 5JD for a mobile dongle/ wi fi and an extra 5JD per day for a Sat Nav which we didn’t use as we had the internet. Despite the car hire company’s tardiness, he turned out to be quite nice! He gave some us tips and pointers, handed the car over to us and away we went!

We decided our first stop would be Madaba. It was about half an hour away from Amman and there were a few things to see there plus we could stop for lunch. We followed the signs – Jordan is very well sign posted for tourists – for the Mosaic church. It cost 1JD for entry and they only charged for adults. Now these prices seems very low, however Jordan is an expensive country to visit. 1JD is equivalent to £1! So the car hire for example was the equivalent of £60 or $120 a day which is very, very expensive. It was also one of the cheaper car hire places. Imagine if we’d gone for one of the all singing, all dancing, all mod cons sedans…we’d still be in Jordan trying to pay off the cost of car hire! Driving in Jordan has just one definition. Hairy! Andrew had abdicated his chauffeuring duties so I was driving and it’s a bit scary how it felt so familiar and chaotic at the same time. It was like driving to or from Kubwa during rush hour many moons ago in Abuja.

The Mosaic Church aka St George Church is located right in the middle of Madaba which is a small bustling town. It houses the oldest map of the Holy Land.

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A very friendly sentry who was taken with the children and very much amused by their antics struck up a conversation with us and through him, we found the most quaint place to eat. The food was heavenly and prepared right there whilst we were waiting. The owner also kindly charged our phones. Now plugs and adaptors – Jordan uses a mishmash of them as did Israel. None of the recommended ones we had fit! After a hearty lunch, we decided to follow the brown signs universally recognised by tourists everywhere. We still had no plans but it was just noon so we had a lot of time.

We meandered our way towards Mt Nebo. God showed Moses the promised land on Mt Nebo… It’s quite high up and you can see for miles and miles and miles. Apparently on a very clear day, one can see all the way to Egypt, Jerusalem, Lebanon, Saudi Arabi and the dead sea. We saw nothing like that. Just lots and lots and lots of vast dry land. It was very hazy, maybe the harmattan… We saw a sign for Moses Spring and set off in search of it.

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The very windy and meandering road to Moses Spring. We didn’t find it. No, we gave up after deciding the road was too much of an unknown for us! You can just about see the road we traveled on trailing off in the distance.img_1352

Entrance to the monastery at Mt Nebo. Out of excitement, tiredness or maybe both, Agaba ran down and out of the monastery and straight into a white van parked solidly across the path. No one could have missed it except Agaba. Ok, maybe Onyaidu too would. He sported a shiner on his cheek for several days and took immense pleasure in telling everyone we met that he’d smacked into a ‘big, giant, white van!’

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View of the promised land

As it was just gone past 2pm, we decided to drive towards the Dead Sea and camp – not literally, I hate camping! – there for the night. After a  leisurely hour’s drive with about 4 photo stops, we saw our first glimpse of the Dead Sea. It looked so, so calm.

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We had run out of nappies. I didn’t pack any from Auckland and bought just 3 in Singapore which we used the only night we spent in a bed. We drove towards what looked like the Dead Sea settlement. Only it wasn’t. It was a purpose built tourist pitstop. There was a shopping mall and lots of hotels built on the banks of the sea. We couldn’t find parking at the mall. There was only valet parking which we had to pay for. That annoyed me greatly for some reason and I drove off. We decided the hotels there were too glitzy and we’ll follow the sea and see how far we get. Thanks to the mobile Wi Fi, we knew there was accommodation towards the end of the Dead Sea with availability. Another 40 minutes of driving took us to Mujib Nature Reserve. We couldn’t find the accommodation initially. Then it dawned on us…we were looking at it! With some reservations, Andrew went to enquire about available accommodation. They had a triple room. Yay! I asked about washing facilities – remember Genevieve spewed everywhere for a few hours on the flight and those clothes were just rinsed plus we’d had 3 changes of clothes so far. I was met with a blank stare and told it was too late to do any washing. It was just 4pm! I was very tempted to drive back to tourist land an hour away! Andrew prevailed with common sense. We paid for the room and ‘checked’ in. It was basic accommodations. Mattresses and sheets what I would consider threadbare but clean. There were no tea facilities! Waah! We also paid for dinner. I got the vibe the owners were annoyed at me for asking so many questions…so I respected myself and we stayed in the room for a while. I took the opportunity to wash all our dirty clothes by hand. In the words of Agaba, ‘Oh man’! It was such a chore and a painful process and I clearly remembered why I hated it so much in the past. The pads of my thumbs were throbbing painfully when I was done! Andrew was in some pain too. We were in the last chalet. The path was laid broken stones and gravel so his foot was not very happy.

Dinner was a typical middle eastern fare. Simple but hearty. I didn’t eat any as all I wanted was tea which I finally got after some grumbling to the owners. There were other guests there, 2 couple and a group of 4 ladies. Everyone kept to themselves which was a big shame and no one deigned to reply to my greetings or the children’s hellos. Onyaidu also threw the mother of all tantrums just before dinner was served which probably didn’t enamour us to them… I hefted her back to the room and she fell asleep before she hit the bed. She was completely shattered. Now back to the nappy situation. We had only 2, so C and G got one and Agaba had none. I mentally reminded myself to wake him to pee at least twice in the night. I forgot and slept the sleep of the just as did all the rest. The end!

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First glimpse of Mujib Chalets where we spent 1 nightimg_1381

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Breakfast room. The room came with breakfast which was served communally.

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The chalets were lovely. But my slumming days are well behind me now so nope. There’s no internet but there was air-conditioning which dripped throughout the night and left a nice puddle for us to wake too.

9am, we had breakfast and checked out. The owners seemed much nicer and were even playing with the children. Maybe they were glad to see us go! Haha

DANA BIOSPHERE

Day 2 in Jordan, we woke bright and earlyish – it was the only early start we had in Jordan so it’s notable! We checked out, had breakfast and drove towards Dana Biosphere through the mountains. Oh my! What absolutely breath taking scenery. The pictures don’t do it any justice. The colours, the undulation of the land, the shimmer of the heat…it is stunning! It was a short 1.5 hour drive but we always veered off and followed any brown signs we saw.

One of such led us to this museum which touts itself as the Lowest Point on Earth Museum located in Safi. It is 1300f below sea level. It feels normal being there. We didn’t start floating, or ballooning up or grinning stupidly… It is also a 10 minute drive or so from Lot’s cave. Lot’s cave is where Oga Lot and his daughters sought refuge after the destruction of Sodom and Gomorrah – we didn’t find his wife’s salt pillar, probably melted into the dead sea now.

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The museum from the air – NOT MY PICTURE

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We then continued towards Dana. Our plan was to spend the night in Dana so there was no hurry. However, we got to Dana and found this quaint, lovely, sort of backwater place and the first thought in my head was, ‘I’m not bloody washing any more clothes by hand!’ Dana is a the place to go if you want to see how the Jordanians traditionally live. All the houses are built with mud and stone, lots of donkeys roaming around, buildings looking as if the smallest touch would topple them over and lined with accommodation, adverts for guided hikes and cafes/ restaurants – well eating houses and terraces more like and very, very friendly people. Again completely reminded me of my village Ajegbe before brick built buildings and electricity took over. The cobbled streets of course were no good at all for Andrew. These hikes last from a couple of hours to 5 day long hikes. It also gives an idea of the sheer number of tourists that pass through the area. At the back of my mind, I wonder if the town is purpose built. It does give that vibe. There are no children except ours even though it was towards late afternoon. Every other house seemed to be offering accommodation and hikes so there was a plethora of signs advertising accommodation, hikes and tours of the biosphere. Someone called out a greeting to us from above, we chatted a bit about where we were from etc and we decide to go eat at his terrace.

We have lunch and decide to press on to Petra. Andrew wouldn’t be able to do even the smallest hike and so there was no need to stay at Dana. Plus Petra was just another 45 minute drive on.

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Heading up to the terrace for lunch

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Agaba and Abdul the home owner take a liking to themselves.

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The children really liked exploring the nooks and crannies in the house.

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Lunch was very nice. Simple, hearty and hot

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View of Dana from the terrace

PETRA

Petra is the name of the gorge where the Roman buildings etc are. Wadi Musa – Musa is the Arabic name for Moses – is the name of the town in which Petra is located. Which came first? I dunno. Wadi Musa (Valley of Moses) is where Moses historically struck a rock to provide fresh water for the grumbling Israelites as they journeyed from Egypt to the promised land. Quite a few of the Jordanian towns are located in valleys. This makes sense as it gets very hot in the summer which lasts for about 7 months or so of the year and even in the winter, the middle of the day does get quite hot. The surrounding hills and mountains cast a shade over the villages and gives reprieve from the fierce sun. Conversely, it gets very cold in the mornings and evenings.

We roll into Wadi Musa and as we had not made any accommodation plans, we drove the streets – it was not busy at all – scouting for what looked like suitable sleeping quarters. Andrew would go in and try to negotiate a price and we’d head somewhere else to compare. The town is small enough that this took only about half an hour. We settled on Petra Sela Hotel. A 4* hotel with a restaurant below as well as opposite and a well appointed family room. The room rates were 140JOD. Andrew bargained to 110JOD. When we came in to pay, I convinced them to knock off another 10JOD per night if we spent an extra night! Dinner for the children is free and we adults will pay 15JOD each. We were asked if we wanted continental meals or Jordanian fare. We opted for local meals. All breakfast included. Oh a big bonus – they have tea making facilities! 😁💕 plus they had a laundry! The shower room was huge as was the room itself. The staff made us very welcome immediately as they started playing with the children and hiding and seeking. I like that each child had their own bed and we had a very large one to ourselves too. Each bed had a dimmer light that shone towards the bed alone and left the rest of the room in shadows. It was communal sleeping at it’s finest!

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Restaurant opposite the hotel. Also owned by the same person

One of the many disadvantages of long distance travel is that children were asleep at 6pm. We were sat waiting for dinner – it was 3 course meals – C & G fell asleep after the starter! I had to lug them across the road and take them to bed. Thank god the children’s meals were free! The manager was so nice – he packed us a doggy bag with enough food to feed 3 people! This came in handy when the children proceeded to wake at 4am! We all had some hot tea, cold rice and chicken. It was yummy! Reminded me of my university and youth service days. I ate so much cold food then!

After that lovely pre-breakfast, we decided to go watch the sun rise over Petra! We got lost a bit, because Andrew still won’t accept I am better at remembering roads than he is!It was cold! We also left the mobile WiFi in the hotel room!

It was cold and absolutely stunning! Plus a bit cloudy so we didn’t quite get to see the sun rise but who cares?! The travel blankets have really come into their own! Here’s to reaching every country on those blankets!

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We returned, had breakfast and drove off for Petra. It was all a bit underwhelming. Sorry!!! I think I’d hyped it up too much in my head but Andrew reports he thought it was just a bit disappointing too. Great British understatement as always! The pedestrian access from the car park is non existent. Be prepared to be hounded, literally with people trying to sell everything as well as sell donkey rides, trinkets, scarves, books, everything! They also do not take no for an answer and will follow you. We kept being told it was not fair we were making the children walk and that we should take a ride. Errm…they have legs?! There is no cash point in the complex so cash out some money before heading in if you need to. We passed security, bought tickets, made the obligatory toilet visits and we were off! We spent about 3 hours in total there and it’s easy to spend the whole day exploring. Although it does become samey after a while. To thoroughly explore the complex, I reckon one would need a good 3 days. We bought a 2 day ticket but didn’t return the next day as we felt we’d seen enough.

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Entrance and security gate

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First day of not needing the crutches!

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WADI RUM

We decided to skip day 2 in Petra and head to Wadi Rum instead. We’re quite glad to have chosen one place as a base rather than packing up to drive to Wadi Rum. We again chose to follow the brown signs to Wadi Rum and joined the motorway. The road was so, so bumpy! The camber was all wrong! It was the most uncomfortable 1 hour drive ever. The drivers…the less said, the better. When driving in Jordan, keep well below the speed limit and watch out for pedestrians and animal especially camels and donkeys. They walk everywhere and would just walk into the road. Even the motorway! Wadi Rum is a protected area. The Bedouins have done a good job of keeping it from being completely over run and keep a tight-ish control of who goes in and out. Again, we were cornered by a young lad just before we got to the visitor centre. He offered us a price and I was almost going to negotiate then realised he’d charged us the official price. I know he was expecting us to negotiate but I would have happily paid the official price so why not pay him that?! Just before we climbed into the open backed truck, I heard the inevitable, ‘Mama, poo poo’. I looked round, it was all open land, no bushes, no trees, no hedges. Damn children! They always pick their moments! I quickly told the young lad what the issue was and he ushered me towards one of the low bushes that I hadn’t noticed before. There, we did our business, buried it in the sand and drove off. Phew! It was a bit chilly sat in the back of the truck, so we all suited up. We booked a 2 hour drive as I didn’t want to take the chance of the children falling asleep. What a nightmare that would be! It was a leisurely 2 hour drive across a vast expanse of nothingness. Even the mountains and rocks looked puny sat on the land. It was completely bare and very much unlike the Sahara desert. The hues were richer. Deep reds, golds and all the shades in between those two colours. I give kudos to those who camp there. My camping days are well and truly behind me.

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These sand dunes were just calling out to be climbed. I settled with a drink and let the children at it. Andrew was a bit helicopter parent ish and kept trying to go after them. The sand defeated him and he came to sit beside me.img_1671img_1674.movimg_1678

We took the scenic route back to Petra but did not manage to avoid that diabolical motorway! Our next stop was Aqaba where we will hand back the car and cross the border to Israel.

AQABA

We only spent half a day in Aqaba. In hindsight, we should have spent 1 night there and explored a bit more. Aqaba is a lot nicer than Eliat. Eliat and Aqaba are border and coastal town which sit on the Red Sea between Israel and Jordan. The Jordanian side has lovely resorts, nice hotels and a Mediterranean feel to it. It was a lovely town. We went walkabout, had some lunch and then handed in car. There are a few things to see like the oldest church in the world, the fortress (which was closed for repairs and more Roman ruins) but more than anything, it’s the home of water sports in Jordan and these were advertised everywhere. You can’t take Jordanian cars into Israel and vise versa. The driver dropped us off at the border. It was about a 10 minute drive from the centre of Aqaba. We walked up, handed in our passports, paid 10JD for exit fees and our passports got stamped! Oh well, means we can never go to Saudi Arabia! We walked across to Israel.

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Aqaba Church. Apparently the oldest purpose built church in the world.

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Israel here we come!

The Epic Christmas Trip!

We’d always stuck to 5, 7 days and a max of 14 days travel here and there. We’ve never really done any long term sustained traveling as like most people, I shudder to think of lugging the children from airport to airport, carrying suitcase upon suitcase and the inevitable plaintive, ‘Carry me!’ wail from each child. Remember, we are now outnumbered. The children are at the stage where we cannot carry all of them at once. Agaba is about my chest high tall – that sentence does not work right? My English is not currently working! I physically can’t carry him from a standing position. The girls, I can just about manage. With all of these in mind, long term travel seemed out of reach. This is where the World Schooler Group comes in. There are families traveling full time. As in travel for months, years and years and non stop. With 2,3,4,5 and one Aussie woman is traveling with 9 children! We (they share and I copy) share tips on how travel can be done with children, what they wished they’d done or not done and my eyes shined – again wrong I know! This is Nigerian English now.

2018 was the year we tested this travel strategy. We’d decided (well I did and everyone else agreed. Ok Andrew agreed. Nobody asked the children) that we would visit South East Asia this year particularly Cambodia and Vietnam and if we could, we would fit in Laos. Singapore seemed to be the obvious choice to make all the connecting flights so around May 2018, I shopped around and booked a return ticket to Singapore. Around August 2018, my father was diagnosed with a chronic health condition. After some discussion with the family, we agreed to change the focus of our trip to the Middle East. This will enable my father meet up with us in Dubai (there’s no way I’m taking my children to Nigeria yet) plus also enable my siblings to meet up with there too all being well. So, countries got changed and we decided – joint decision honestly – on Jordan, Israel, UAE then spend some time in Singapore before heading back to Auckland. Our leaving and returning dates were fixed for 8th December to 7th January so 1 month. It is the longest we have been away and the longest we have had only ourselves for company! Eek!!! Either a divorce will be on the cards when we return or… plus it’s our 7th year of marriage! Double eek!!!

I didn’t book the rest of the trip till towards the end of the year for many reasons. 2018 was hands down one of the most expensive years we’ve ever had. We moved houses within Auckland and lost some of our deposit – got 2/3rds back though! Which just about paid in full for the cost of moving 15 minutes down the road; as well as paid deposit for another house. Now, house rents are paid weekly. Our rent is just shy of $1000 a week. To move in, we needed 6 weeks rent upfront. We also applied for residency visas. Visa application fees came to just over $3000. Auckland is unarguably one of the most expensive cities to fly from and we had 5 tickets to pay for. Our Singapore round trip was just over $5000. It was one of the cheapest I found and that was by using VPNs, obsessively tracking flights and  checking websites, playing around with flight dates and times. We would save and use up the money then start the cycle all over again. So it took a while and lots of beans on toast (it’s very cheap here too!) to save up for the rest of the trip. To be fair, the cost of tickets out of Singapore didn’t go up much. What we paid in November was not to dissimilar to the prices I saw in August and September. The only difference was the time. The flights at the sensible times had skyrocketed. We didn’t mind flying in and out at 3am and that is exactly what we did. I also found that splitting tickets and in some instances buying one way tickets worked out cheaper. Also transiting through Australia knocked about $700 off the ticket price rather than flying directly from Auckland to Singapore. So flights booked were Auckland to Singapore via Melbourne – round trip with a 4 hour and 1.5 hour layover in Melbourne respectively. Round trip tickets from Singapore to Dubai then round trip tickets from Dubai to Jordan worked out about $540 cheaper than flying from Singapore direct to Amman. It also meant we could take the cheaper flight that landed at 1am with a 5 hour layover in Dubai. A couple of days before we left, we found out my younger sister could not join us in Dubai. We decided to add a flight to Cyprus and surprise her so booked return tickets to fly from Tel Aviv to Larnaca. It was a 1 hour flight and cost us $800. That was $200 less than it cost us to fly from Auckland to Christchurch earlier in June and that was booked way in advance too. We needed up buying another ticket but I’m jumping the gun here. Our total flight costs including the last minute flight came to $10,400 NZD/ £5,000.

Saturday, 8th December dawned clear and bright. I had not done any packing the day before. My plan was to travel with only hand luggage for each person for the 30 days we were going to be away for. I knew if I started packing the day before, I’d panic and over pack! So I was deliberate and meticulous in my plans. Each child has a Smiggle back pack they already use for Kindy. It is well made, comfortable and very lightweight. Andrew and I also have a medium sized regular back pack each.

Each child had: 10 clothes – a combination of T shirts, shorts, tights and long sleeve tops so they could mix and match. 10 pairs of pants each (mainly because of accidents), 1 travel blanket which came in very handy and folds quite small, 2 pairs of shoes (1 sandal and 1 closed), a kindle, 2 activity books and 1 water bottle. I usually buy Pediped shoes for the children. Not only do they mould to the feet but they flex and can fold up small too. Plus swim suits.

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Modeling blankets! I plan to sew a coloured button onto each they’ve country visited. I best get on. He’s been to 14 countries now!

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Andrew & 1: 1 pair of comfortable shoes, 5 pairs of clothes and a reasonable number of underwear, 1 laptop, 1 water bottle, swim suits.

We also packed clothes that we could easily dispose of if needed. I know from the WS group that most places have a clothes bank where we could giveaway the clothes if we needed to badly restock. I also deliberately picked clothes that were becoming too small for the children so I’d have to donate them before heading back. I bought some packing cubes but didn’t use them. I found they work better for suitcases where each person’s stuff goes in a different cube and can easily be found. It seemed to just bulk up the back packs so I rolled each piece of clothing and into the backpack it went. I also had a wet bag in each child’s bag for those accidents and somewhere to put wet clothes. That was godsent for the many vomit sessions we had! We also packed one waterproof lightweight coat each just in case. This made me decide to take a cabin sized suitcase so the coats could go in it. We never needed to use them!

Other things I packed were 2 solid body wash bars, a solid body cream – it was absolutely useless!!! and a solid conditioner bar each. We don’t use shampoo so it was one less thing to carry. I can report that all were very good apart from the cream. Absolutely useless. It just sat on the surface of the skin and we all ended up with very dry skin. I had to buy Aveeno in the end to repair all the damage. Maybe it was the particular product I bought – I purchased all from Ethique, a NZ company that makes solid soaps, conditioners, perfumes etc. You can find their products at https://ethiqueworld.com/ Lush is another place to buy from but I preferred Ethique’s solid conditioners. I may try the Lush body bars now we’re home and compare.

A few days before our trip, Andrew woke up with excruciating pain in his foot. He couldn’t bear weight and had to work from home for most of the week. A trip to the Dr and a blood test later revealed he had a gout flare up. First ever one, just a few days before a trip that would require lots of walking. Nice! Thanks to a friend, we borrowed some crutches and took it with us.

Our flight out of Auckland was at 12.30pm on the 8th. Cecile very kindly dropped us off at the airport for our first flight from Auckland to Melbourne. The children were very excited. I was filled with both trepidation and a small sense of excitement. The benefit of traveling with only hand luggage soon became very, very apparent.

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The flight to Melbourne was quick and easy! The children settled into their seats and watched movies all through. No one slept! They were troopers and would happily pick their bags and carry them without being asked to – the bags are their regular kindy bags and I think that helped as they’d been using them for sometime and identified the bags as theirs.

After an easy 4 hour wait at Melbourne, we boarded at 5pm for our flight to Singapore. I had to change G’s clothes three times. She just kept throwing up. She seemed fine in herself and had no temperature so we just kept an eye. Damn airplane food! We decided to help ourselves overcome jet lag and make the journey easier by stopping over at Singapore. After lots of research and again leaning on collective wisdom of the WS group as well as the other family travel groups on FB; the overwhelming advice was to book a hotel at the airport and make sure we get some sleep. We had just under a 24 hour layover in Singapore and our flight would get into Dubai just after 2am.

So first stop! A 24 hour layover in Changi Airport. We booked Aerotel Hotel. It’s a budget hotel located in T1. Off the plane and 10 minutes later, we were having a hot shower. No need to clear immigration as it’s airside. I tried to book the hotel online but the website kept trying to get me to book 2 rooms as there are 5 of us. The curse of the non 2 parent, 2 child family! I called up and asked for the family suite which is a 2 bedroom as I wanted to make sure I booked in the right number of people – the reviews indicated the staff would not honour bookings where people turned up with even a baby that was not registered in the guest number! The customer service agent was brilliant and assured me we didn’t need a 2 bedroom. She booked us into a double room with twin beds. The beds are more like queen sized beds (kingsize in the UK) The children fit nicely and comfortably into one of the beds, Andrew and I took the other. They offer wake up calls. The room is very silent! We stayed in an inside room so we had no windows. Some of the rooms have views of the runway. All very soundproof! What my secondary school principal called pin drop silence! Never found out what it quite meant but we obeyed…

The hotel comes with a complimentary swim at the roof top swimming pool. As we’d booked for more than 12 hours, we had 2 full meals included. The menu has only about 8 items though but the meals were filling and tasty! The cost was $120 for the room, meals and unlimited use of the swimming pool!

We checked out at 2pm. That gave us 6 ish hours to explore the airport! It’s a mini city 🌃 in it’s own right! Each terminal has lots of activities and things to explore and do.

If you have a layover of 5 hours or more, you can also get free tours of Singapore! As long as you have an onward ticket, you’ll be issued a single entry visa.

Aerotel double bedroom.

Cactus Garden and bar. There’s live music in the evenings too.

The social tree. You take a picture and upload it to Changi Airport’s SM sites. You get tagged if you log in as yourself. The pictures are also beamed round the tree at intervals

Dining room at the hotel. Up the stairs is the gym and pool. Through the corridors are more bedrooms, shower rooms and toilets.

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Dining room. Lots of space and seating. We spent a good 2 hours here leisurely watching the planes land and take off

Descent into Singapore.

The Emirate flight from Singapore to Dubai was… I lack the adjectives kowai! (word used for emphasis in Hausa language. No idea of meaning) Andrew has said we can only fly Emirates from now on! The children were well looked after and catered for. I was most impressed with the gluten and sugar free dessert. All the meals were nicely presented, tasty and filling. We also got proper cutlery! None of those plastic airplane cutlery. They were given nice, fluffy blankets with animals drawn on them. They also had activity packs for the children. We arrived Dubai bleary eyed. Changed terminals and waited for our flight to Jordan. We had a 5 hour wait so went in search of breakfast. It took us over an 1 hour to transfer from one terminal to another. Worth knowing for very short layovers!

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For cash, I ordered the Transferwise Mastercard. It works like a debit card. The main reasons why I like is that I can load the currencies of different countries on it from either my UK or NZ account and use it instead of transferring money to and fro. I can also withdraw without any charges as long as you have activated that country’s currency. As it has an app, I can also freeze the card immediately if I lose the card which I thought was a great bonus!

Jordan to come…

 

 

 

 

Auckland and environs

Auckland gets a bed rep. A lot of residents (Kiwis and no Kiwis) hate it. Yes, compared to the rest of NZ it is positively a bustling melting pot. Yes, it has traffic issues (don’t get me started), yes, houses are crazy expensive. But for NZ’s largest city – population of Auckland, 1.4 million. Population of NZ, just over 4 million – it is still very provincial. Each suburb is a fully functioning community. You don’t need to head into the city centre to shop, eat, have fun etc. Each suburb has theatres, lots of free activities, shopping malls, independent shops, cafes, banks etc. You only need to drive for 10 minutes or so and you’re out in the open countryside. Usually in the middle of nowhere! It’s rare to find a busy beach even on a Saturday afternoon! There are lots of walks and almost all neighbourhoods have protected reserves that transport you from being right in a highly built up area to hearing only birdsong and the occasional helicopter! Every weekend brings a free event or another. There are heaps and heaps to do. The biggest bonus? All the concerts have a performance in Auckland and included in the ticket costs will also be transport on the trains and buses. Grabone and 1 day offer lots of reduced offers to a gazillion activities, meals out and days out. What’s not to love?

I LOVE AUCKLAND!!!

MOTAT – Museum of Transport and Technology. Free for under 5s. There is always an activity on for children and families.

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Piha Beach – Auckland’s surf mecca. Usually empty in the mornings and evenings. Surf lessons for children from age 4 also available. Has lots of caves, rock pools and walks.

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My house???!!!

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Cornwall Park and One Tree Hill – one of the many dormant (extinct?) volcanic peaks and craters in Auckland. Cornwall Park is also one of the largest parks in Auckland. It can get very, very busy at weekends and Christmas but you still get the illusion of being in your own space.

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Devonport – home to NZ’s naval base. Has lots of military history. Tunnels to explore and rolling down the hills on cardboard!

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Cruise season begins…not many Aucklanders like it, well except the shop owners!

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WHOA Studios, Henderson. Always puts on children’s shows and events. Under 3s free if sat on laps.

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Kayaking on various lakes and rivers. We’re on the Puhoi River here, just north of Auckland.

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Maritime Museum Auckland. Under 5s free. Also free for Auckland residents. You need a proof of address. I showed an energy bill from my phone so you don’t even need to take a paper copy along.

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Ti Point Reptile Park – just North of Auckland. Tickets can easily be bought from Grabone. $50 for all 5 of us. It was a lovely day out for the children.

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Taupo and environs

We spent the weekends in August visiting Taupo and it’s environs. Taupo is located in Central North Island and has the advantage of being the location of the major ski fields on the North Island. It also boast of being home to New Zealand’s most active volcano, Mt Raupehu (last erupted in 2007 and is currently showing some activity) which is also the gateway to the Tongariro crossing. This means the Central North Island region is a hotbed of activities all year round. There’s also a cycle track all the way from Taupo to New Plymouth. That’s several days worth of cycling. Hopefully, one we would be able to undertake sometime in the future. It is an activity packed area. One can be based there and visit Rotorua, Matamata, Raglan, New Plymouth as it’s fairly central. There’s also a bus from Taupo to Wellington and to Auckland. Those cities are too far for a day trip but will certainly work for overnight trips from Taupo. If you have a car, even better!

Unfortunately, I had a phone mishap and I can’t access all my pictures. It had not backed up to my drive and the touch screen won’t work. Till I sort it out, we have only these few pictures to go with.

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Brr!!! It was -11! We weren’t out for long! PS – it was T shirt weather a mere 15 minutes drive down later

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Very eerie landscape. Just a few minutes drive down from the mountain peak and ski fields.

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Hot springs in our hotel. They are boiling hot and have to be diluted with cold water. Very nice after a long cold day outside though

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rotorua – Oct 2018

It’s another bank holiday whoopie! The last one was early June so this was a long awaited one. As usual, we were heading somewhere. We vaguely had Napier in mind and started looking at accommodation. A few friends have been hassling me that I don’t include them in my travel plans and they would like to see NZ too. For every good reasons, I do not like planning joint trips unless I have no choice. A month to go, I ask my friend for their travel budget. A week to the trip I still had no answer. At this point, I was tempted to just do my own thing. 2 days before the trip, I seriously start hunting for suitable accommodation and can find none in Napier. Not. A. Single. One! Really?! I cast the net a bit wider. Nada! Thursday night – we were going away on the Friday – we change tack and start searching other places to go. We then decide on Rotorua. We’ve only passed through it. It is only a 2 hour drive away as opposed to Napier that is a good 5 hours drive away and it has plenty to see and do in a long weekend. Our search yields results and Andrew books a Motor Lodge. That is the New Zealand equivalent of a Premier Inn or Holiday Inn but Motor Lodges comes in various sizes here. They usually comprise of studios, 1, 2 and 3 bedroom lodges. We booked a 2 bed one. Our current au pair Cecile has only been with us a week but she opts to come as well. Of course, friend decides they don’t want to come anymore. It’s too expensive apparently. Sheesh…

Friday dawns clear and sunny. I work very close to the motorway and keep an eye on the road. By 1pm, there was a gridlock building already so we decide to leave Auckland at 7pm. As usual, we feed and wash everyone and set off. We arrived at 9.30pm and everyone settled in for a good sleep.

We spent Saturday and Sunday exploring Rotorua and it’s environs. We kick off by heading to Te Puia. Te Puia houses the largest geyser, Pohutu in the southern hemisphere. Rotorua is known for it’s geothermal activity so it’s fitting we start there. Entry costs $81 for adults and free for children. We get a discount of $30 each as we have NZ addresses. Sweet!!! We started off with a wander round. It’s a hotbed (the whole of Rotorua is) of geothermal activity. Everywhere smells like Iceland  but it’s not Iceland! We also attended the daytime Maori traditional performance at the Marae which included a Waiata, a hongi and a haka performed specially for ticket holders. It was a moving ceremony and performance which made me very home sick! It was very much like the masquerade dances and ceremonies in my part of Nigeria! It actually took me back to my great grand mother’s funeral. She was not only the oldest villager when she passed away but she was the last surviving practitioner of the old religion. As such, her send off was a grandiose and cultural affair! I felt her with me sitting there for the haka. Due to the children, we were given the honour of sitting right in front and the children got a special hongi but Andrew was not fast enough in taking pictures! Oh well!

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Pohutu 1

Boiling water everywhere! The meals served there are actually cooked in the traditional Maori style in the ground using the mud pools

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Pohutu. Erupts every 10 minutes or so

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We walked to Te Puia and back. Had some pizza for lunch and went in  search of high ground. We decided to walk up to Aorangi Peak. There we some Llamas and rein deer up there! Made it worthwhile! We didn’t quite make it to the top as it was getting dark but the vista across Rotorua and Waikato was beautiful!

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Sunday morning, we wake late. This never happens but it’s welcome! We thought about going to Hell’s Gate but the thought of a mud bath was enough to make us discard that idea. Plus it’s more geothermal activity and we had our fix of that yesterday. We head to Okere Falls and walks. In the days of yore, there used to be a hydro station located here. There are relics and remnants of hydro machinery dotted about. It also has very lovely and scenic walks all the way to the bottom of the river and back to the falls. The children loved running about and exploring.2a1650d4-882c-4b06-818f-d2fa9a37ba7ab76f1c00-c2f1-4ca4-a7eb-fca420e2fddfCIXI1768

Bottom of the river. In typical New Zealand style, it was very clear!IMG_0651

Exploring the nearby caves. It’s also the part where the river pinches and drops causing a huge waterfall.IMG_0665IMG_0672

White water rafters! Tumbling into the water below! Many manged to stay in their inflatable boats. Quite a few turned over! All had life jackets on though. No drownings to report! I quite fancy a go at white water rafting too. Watch this space!IMG_0681IMG_0686

A picture of all of us! Yay!IMG_0694

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KEROSENE CREEK

A 30 minutes or so drive outside Rotorua is Kerosene Creek. True to it’s name, it’s smells faintly of kerosene and has a slight taste of what I would imagine kerosene tastes like. It is very warm. The temperature is very comfortable to sit in for the 40 minutes or so we spent there. I imagine it would be too hot in the summer. The outside temperature was about 20 degrees and there a was a bit of a wind which was nice on the skin when one comes out for a breather. The children loved it!

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The weather was nice and lovely! Food cheap as usual. We stayed right opposite Countdown and Pak and Save so it was easy to cook up something. The lodge had no oven but it had cooking facilities. Oh and a spa pool!

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Our humble abode for the few nights there!